Product Review: Patricia Wexler M.D.'s Fastscription Instant De-Puff Gel

Patricia Wexler M.D. Dermatology

Fastscription™ Instant De-Puff Eye Gel What It Does: The name pretty much gives it away, but if you couldn't figure it out ... this product is supposed to de-puff the eye area. **What it Claims** Cooling and correcting, this miraculous gel immediately reduces visible puffiness. See long-term benefits with continued use. Specially formulated yeast complex firms the undereye area and softens the appearance of fine lines. Visibly renews and improves skin inside and out. Firms the orbital eye area Reduces the appearance of fine lines Fragrance-free Suitable for all skin types **pink area = not my own words** My thoughts: I kind of love this product. In fact ... I should get paid for all the people I've sent over to Bath and Body Works to purchase this thing! Okay, so I'm not going to make some outrageous statement by calling it a miracle worker (although a lot of my clients love, love LOVE and swear by this product) ... but it does do wonders. Upon application ... you can totally feel the tingling action as the product starts to work its magic. I'm telling you ... it really does make a difference. Do not, however, mistake this product for a wrinkle filler. I had a client say that she felt the tingling action, totally saw the puffiness die down, but it made little difference to the wrinkles around her eye. *crickets chirping as I stare at her* ... uhhh yeah. It's a De-PUFF product ... not an anti-wrinkling agent. *sigh* So let's rate this thing. *drum rolllllllll* Score: 8/10. "WHAT?! But I thought you LOVED this thing!" Okay ... so the reason this product doesn't get a 10/10 or a 9/10 is because of two things. 1. Many feel that the product loses its effectiveness after long term use. Perhaps taking some time off of the product and only using it when you really need it (i.e. photoshoots) can prevent this. 2. Packaging: I'm no psychic ... I'm a busy makeup artist. The worst thing is getting to a job and then realizing the product is out. Not a huge deal, I know. But little peeper areas in the packaging through SOME clear material would be nice. 10 is perfection ... and this is MY review. I can be stingy with my rating points if I want. So there! =P ***** Happy Makeup-ing! xoxo, Grace makeup@gracechun.com www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

Foundations Overview

If there is one thing I get asked most when my (not so) secret identity as a makeup artist is out, it's questions regarding foundations. Whether it's about color matching, types, brands, tools to use, or application tips ... foundation is apparently the one makeup product that leaves people scratching their heads. And let me tell you ... there are people who don't ask me questions who I kinda wish would .... =/

So I won't bore you by repeating what I wrote in my previous post regarding makeup no-no's, but don't you worry your pretty little heads -- I've got your foundation queries covered (at least I hope I do...)

With that said ... let's begin, shall we? :)

1. TYPES: There are so many different types of foundations out there ... but here is a list of a few popular ones:

*Mineral: Light to Heavy coverage

-PRO: Great for sensitive skin. Flexible coverage. Good for daily use.

-CON: Loose powders = powdery mess.

*Cream: Light to Heavy coverage

-PRO: Flexible coverage. Great for custom color matching. Smooth finish.

-CON: Tad heavy for daily wear.

*Liquid: Light to Medium coverage

-PRO: Good for daily use. Easy to apply. Smooth finish.

-CON: Can irritate skin ... esp. if waterproof

*Tinted Moisturizers: Light coverage

-PRO: Softens, protects, lightly evens out, and moisturizes in one easy step.

-CON: Coverage too light to cover any blemishes.

*Mousse/Whipped: Light to Medium coverage

-PRO: Light and airy formula. Super smooth finish. Great for mature skin.

-CON: Pricy for some added air to the formula.

2. APPLICATION TOOLS

*Stippling brush

*Sponge

*Foundation brush

*BeautyBlender

*Fingers

3. APPLICATION METHODS

*Stipple on with a stippling brush or BeautyBlender for a airbrush-like finish. **#2**

*Apply with a wet sponge for a light/sheer/smooth finish. **#3**

*Apply with a dry sponge for a medium finish.

*Apply with a foundation brush then blend edges with a sponge or fingers.

*Apply with fingers for an easy blend (due to body heat) **#1**

4. COLOR MATCHING

Before I share any color matching methods ... be sure to go foundation shopping with a clean face. There's no point in matching your foundation to a face with makeup already on it. If the foundation is to be worn for photos or film with heavy lighting ... find a foundation color a 1/2 to 1 shade darker to avoid the flushed look ... however, any darker and it may be too dark.

*The 3 Stripe Test:

Choose 3 foundation colors closest to your skin tone and test stripe them across your lower jaw. The tone that melts into your skin on the face and neck is the foundation color that best suits you.

*Care for an "outside" opinion?:

As mentioned in my previous entry ... be sure to test a new foundation color outdoors. Natural lighting vs. store lighting can end up in quite a drastic difference ... so keep this in mind and always get an "outside" opinion.

5. MY THOUGHTS AND RECOMMENDATIONS...

I'm not gonna lie ... my go to "foundation" for the summer is actually the oil free tinted moisturizer. Laura Mercier's, to be exact. BUT that does NOT mean I'm saying it's right for you. Always keep in mind that texture/formula is just as important as color matching.

*Mineral: okay for all skin types, esp. sensitive skin. BUT may be drying for already dry skin.

*Cream: okay for all skin types. Cream to Powder solution is good for oily skin.

*Liquid: okay for all skin types. Sensitive skin, however, be wary of foundation with SPF.

*Tinted Moisturizer: recommended for combination to dry skin. VERY light.

*Mousse/Whipped: great for dry and aging/mature skin

Some brands I've used and recommend are:

Eve Pearl's HD foundation

Makeup Forever's HD Foundation

Revlon Colorstay Foundation

Bare Escentuals Mineral Makeup Foundation

Laura Mercier's SPF 20 Tinted Moisturizer

*****

So there you have it ... my little overview of foundations. I'm pretty sure (more like ... I'm 100% sure) that I left stuff out ... but hey, I'm human. I'm entitled to forget a few things, right? So sue me if you don't agree (actually, please don't. You really won't get much out of me =/). So anyway ... I really do hope that this was helpful to some of you.

Here's to happy makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace

makeup@gracechun.com
www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

Makeup No-no's and How to Avoid Them

Ever seen someone walk around with the wrong color foundation? What about that distinct mask of foundation that covers only the center of their face? Or how about eyeshadow that starts and ends in distinct lines instead of blending in with each other? Or eyeliner that has transferred from the rim of the eyes to the middle of the eyelids from sweat or oils?

If you're as big a makeup fanatic as I am (or just freakishly overly observant to everyone's makeup), I bet you come across handfuls of these makeup fouls on a day to day basis. In fact, more than a few of these offenders are probably close friends or family members. Messy situation. Trust me, I know =/.

For example, after having lunch with a friend who, unfortunately, was guilty of more than one makeup no-no ... I decided that writing about it in my blog may be the best way for her to get the subtle hint ;). It's not like I'm naming any names, right? A bit passive-aggressive perhaps -- but can you blame me? I'm not here to hurt anyone's feelings ... just sharing a few makeup tips to those who love makeup as much as I do. And lets face it ... every girl needs a few makeup tips every now and then. And that includes me :).

For the sake of this blog entry, I'll keep the list of makeup faux pas' (and their solutions) to 10. So without further ado ... lets begin with the most commonly made mistake:

1. You look a little pale ... you feeling okay?

Whether it's too dark or too light ... the fact of the matter is, too many people walk around with a foundation color that's simply too wrong for their face. So what's the problem here?

If I had to pinpoint the main misconception regarding foundation, it's the idea that one foundation color will do for the rest of your life. Now, I know that we're all busy and the idea of asking a cosmetic rep to match our foundation for us every time we re-purchase a bottle seems like a huge waste of time. HOWEVER, I feel that it is important to understand that our face is not always one color, nor is this color incapable of change. Change is inevitable, especially for those who are residents of high sunshine locations (like me ... sunny, sunny Southern California).

My advice is ... always match your foundation to your skin tone every couple months. Also, I find that keeping a few different tones of foundation with you can be most helpful. Personally, I have foundation to match my face for winter, fall/spring, and summer. By having a few selections to choose from ... it's easy to mix and match shades to custom-made perfection while your skin tone is in its transitional stages. Another suggestion is to get an outside opinion on the matter when purchasing a shade for the first time--and by outside, I mean LITERALLY go outside. Sometimes the lighting in a store can be deceptive. What looks great inside a store can look totally different when put to the test outdoors in natural lighting. And last but not least ... foundation is for your face, not your hand or your arm. So match accordingly. Since most products come with SPF nowadays, it's inevitable that the neck and face are going to be different shades. Try the 3 stripe test *check in for the "Foundation Overview" coming soon* along your lower jaw to find the right match.

2. The Masquerade Ball of Foundation

While a mask may be suitable for Halloween or a masquerade party ... it is not a look that's okay for your regular day to day.

Unlike color matching, this problem has a fairly easy fix. Just take your foundation brush/sponge/fingers (whatever application tool you use) and blend, blend, BLEND the foundation into your hairline, towards the ear, down the chin, and onto the neck. The whole point of foundation is to create an even, flawless finish to the face and prepare it for the rest of the makeup application process. Without proper blending, it defeats the entire purpose of foundation ... after all, an unblended mask of foundation not only accentuates unevenness, it's better off to not wear any at all. So take that tool and blend away, girls.

3. Unruly Eyeliner

I know you've all seen it lady's ... in fact, I'm pretty sure that you've been guilty (more like, victim) of the commonly made mistake of forgetting to keep your eyeliner in check.

That's right ... the eyeliner application process doesn't just start and stop with lining the eyes with your favorite pen/gel/liquid liner. The process actually begins with a good eyeshadow primer along with a wash of eyeshadow all over the lid, to prevent oils from underneath to break down the product. The process then ends with the key element of setting with your desired powder. By setting your liner with a powder (translucent or preferred eyeshadow color) it'll keep the liner from traveling away from its intended location. By combining these two steps, you can get through the day without worrying about any eyeliner mishaps.

4. It's called LIPstick ... not TOOTHpick ;)

Okay ... I KNOW that was lame, but you all know what I'm getting at. Lipstick belongs on your lips, not your teeth.

The solution to this problem isn't exactly the most "glamorous" but it works, and desperate times (more like "problems") call for desperate measures.

So here it is: the solution to avoiding lipstick on your teeth is to apply your lipstick as normal and then stick your *clean* finger into the center of your mouth and slide it out between your lips ... kinda like a lollipop. Your finger should catch any excess lipstick from the center of your lips and will successfully prevent any lipstick from smearing onto your teeth. **I do not doing this to a client ... it would probably be seen as inappropriate and you'll never see them again. In fact ... you probably won't be finishing the rest of their look either..."

5. ...Nor is it called FACEstick

yeah yeah yeah ... the lame police should come and take me away, but it doesn't change the fact that lipstick should stay on your lips and not make a mess on your face. Feathering lipstick is not an attractive look.

Luckily, this problem has two easy solutions: lipliner and concealer.

Now, I'm not talking about 90's style darker than lipstick lipliner ... I'm thinking more along the lines of similar tone or clear lipliner to create a base and border to prevent lipstick from leaving its designated place. Simply line the lips and then color in the lips with chosen lipliner before applying lipstick. To further increase defenses against feathering, concealer can be used to create crisp lipstick lines and a border of sorts. Place a tissue over the lips and lightly powder with a translucent powder. This will prevent feathering as well as increase the lipstick's longevity. Can't ask for much more than that :)

6. Concealer without a corrector tone is kinda like ... showering and then putting on dirty clothes.

Totally defeats the purpose right? So let's talk correctors.

A corrector color is necessary for a concealer to work its magic properly. Think about it ... if you have a red spot (acne) and a blue spot (under eye circles) how can the concealer correct AND create the same color? It won't.

The concealer needs a corrector tone to neutralize the problematic color. A green corrector tone for any red blemishes and a salmon color corrector for any blue/green blemishes. After using the corrective tone to neutralize, you can then use your normal concealer to create that even tone to match your foundation. What I like to do is apply a corrective tone first, powder the corrected areas, apply foundation like normal ... then concealer for any areas that require extra attention. By applying in this order, a concealer may not even be necessary after the corrective tone and foundation is applied.

7. Why'd you leave the house with your eye makeup half done?

If you're going to put in the time to wear eye makeup ... why not put in the effort to do it properly? A blending brush is not just a necessity in your makeup brush collection ... it's one of the most important. All it takes is to place your desired eye colors ... then blend away the edges and/or where two eyeshadow colors meet with a clean blending brush and some translucent powder. The powder and brush will give it a nice gradient blend that smoothly transitions from one color to the next.

8. Is that a black eye or are you TRYING to look like a raccoon?

Every now and then I come across what I call an out of control smokey eye. What I mean by that is ... the smokiness of the eye has gone beyond its standard intended smokiness and the excess eyeshadow has fallen to the undereye area.

You can prevent this mishap by applying your eye makeup first. That's right. No magic tricks here ... just a little change up of the order. Just do your eye makeup the same as you always would ... and then clean up the excess fallout with some moisturizer.

OR

Do your face makeup. Grab a big fluffy makeup brush and any (clear/light) loose face powder you can find and liberally apply to the area under the eye. Basically it should look like you powder sugared your undereye area. TADA! This powdered area will catch any excess fallout during application and all you have to do is brush clean it off. That wasn't so hard, was it? :)

9. Cakey makeup ... totally your own fault.

Despite what you want to believe ... cakey makeup is not a result of bad cosmetics. In fact ... it's a result from a heavy hand. YOUR heavy hand. Use your makeup in moderation. You can always add more, but it's near impossible to undo over-application. If you use liquid or cream foundation try sheering down your makeup by blending with a wet sponge--you can also mix foundation with moisturizer to sheer down the coverage. And don't over-powder your face either. Try powder blush/bronzer to set your cheeks and then ONE good layer of translucent powder to set the rest of your makeup. If you need to get rid of midday shine ... try using oil blot sheets before packing on the powders. You'll thank me for it later. I promise.

10. Mascara is for your eyelashes ... not your eyelids

That's right ladies ... mascara belongs nowhere else but your eyelashes. So what are my application secrets, you ask? I have three.

First is what I call the blink method. The blink method is just that ... holding the mascara wand in one hand while blinking your lashes into the wand. This method is actually not my favorite, but it seems to be the only one that works for some of my clients when they're applying mascara on themselves. It's pretty foolproof, but it's also not the most efficient.

The second method is the pinky method. This is the one I use most frequently on my clients as well as myself. What I do is place my free pinky between the eyelid and the eyelashes and weave the mascara in with the wand. This allows for full mascara coverage without clumping.

The third method is the business card method. I read about this one in a magazine many years ago. Place a business card (with a semi circle cut in the shape of your eye) along your lash line and weave the mascara in with the wand. This method is great for those against getting your fingers smudged with mascara. The only downfall is that you have to have a business card. Minor detail.

*****

Well ... I hope that was helpful. Please let me know if you have any requests or questions you'd like answered.

Happy Makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace

makeup@gracechun.com

www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

1. 2. 3's on Hygienic practices for a Makeup Artist

There's something that irks me about working with a makeup artist that doesn't have good hygienic practices when it comes to their makeup products. It's not only a reflection on how much you care for your clients ... it is also a reflection on your professionalism. Here are 3 quick tips to keep your products and reputation clean :)

1. Always, always, ALWAYS keep brush cleanser solution and a small towel/paper towels with you to spot clean between clients.

There's just something that irks me about a MUA who refuses to clean their brushes in between clients because they're in a rush. This occurs mostly backstage at a runway event. I've been so lucky (more like unlucky) to have seen a used makeup brush *single application* under a microscope. It's not insanely gross after a single application, but enough to convince me to clean between each client. The lovely oils, sweat, and bacteria on someone's face is now on your brush. Joy. You NEVER know how clean (or unclean ... eck) a client's face is. I assure you, a model's pretty face is not a reflection on her hygienic goodness. Trust me.

2. Use a metal spatula to scoop or scrape products instead of double dipping your brush.

The oils from a client's face will rub off on the brush and then be transferred to your products. This can cause your makeup to go bad earlier than its intended lifetime. As a makeup artist, I know that we aren't exactly in the highest pay margin. This method can save a few of our precious pennies and prevent you from having to restock on makeup goodies prematurely. I have also found a product called Beauty Simply Clean Cosmetic Cleansing Spray. It is a product to look into for those in faster paced environments and find scooping and scraping products a loss of valuable time. If you must double dip ... just take a spritz at your product and it's supposed to kill the germs and bacteria. Good deal.

3. Throw away used sponges and wash your reusable powder puffs.

Okay, so this tip sounds pretty "duh! OBVIOUSLY" BUT you'd be surprised at the number of makeup artists I've worked with on set who use the same sponges and powder puffs on their actress/actor throughout the entirety of the shoot. Gross. Whether it's 2 days or 15 days ... the bacteria from the oils and sweat from your client's face sits there ... on the used sponge/puff and you're just mashing it back and forth on their face. Eck.

tune in next time for more tips ...

Happy Makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace
makeup@gracechun.com
www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

My Daily Must-Haves :: August Edition

So here it is ... my "go to" products that keep me looking fresh during the summer heat =)

1. Acne bar soap :: www.bestbathstore.com

2. Burt's Bees Tomato Toner

3. Laura Mercier SPF 20 Oil Free Tinted Moisturizer

4. Rimmel Stay Matte translucent powder

5. TRUE Mineral Makeup Powder Blush in Apricot

6. MAC's All That Glitters eyeshadow for a nice peachy gold wash to the eyes

7. Any black-brown eyeliner for top

8. Any colored eyeliner for bottom *it adds a nice pop to the eyes*

9. Waterproof Mascara **very important to have waterproof so it doesn't smudge in the sun**

10. Any gloss or burt's bees pomegranate chapstick

Happy makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace
makeup@gracechun.com
www.twitter.com/gracechunmua