Money Saving Tricks :: Loose Translucent Powder

Hey everyone! I'm soooo sorry for my months long hiatus from blogging. It's been a tad crazy ... but I promise you that I'll be back to a normal blogging schedule starting 2010 once a few of my projects are completed and others are well underway (and no longer in prep stages lol) :)

So without further ado ... let's get on with this overly due blog, shall we? Hehe.

***

To sum up this past year ... it's sad to say that the ongoing trend (not by choice) has been the giant financial struggle we've all had to deal with. So in light of the situation ... I thought I would add to my DIY series with a few "Money Saving Tips" thrown in every few entries to help all you makeup lovers get by with what you already have (or you can get for very cheap).

My first tip is to invest in loose translucent powder.

That's right ... loose translucent powder can be used in so many different ways, that it is definitely worth the investment.

1. Setting foundation and concealer

Why not start with the most obvious? As mentioned in previous entries ... you should always set your foundation and concealer with a setting powder to ensure longevity. It is also useful in mattifying your skin if you're a victim of oily pores.

*application tip* :: pat and roll the product instead of brushing it on. This will ensure that you are setting the product, not brushing/swiping the product off. I highly recommend a powder puff to apply.

2. Setting your eyeshadow/eyeliner

If you're worried about losing intensity of the eyeshadow during the day ... pat on a light layer of your translucent powder over your desired eye look and this should set it for a few more hours without reducing the intensity of your eyeshadow colors.

3a. Preventing an under eye mess

I believe I've mentioned this before in a previous entry, but no harm in repeating good advice, right? :) Start by applying a generous amount of loose powder under the eye prior to potentially messy eyeshadow applications. Then go about your normal eyeshadow application process. Once the application process is finished ... grab a big fluffy brush and gently sweep away the loose powder and eyeshadow fall out to reveal a nice, clean under eye area.

3b. Fixing an under eye mess

Forget to use the 3a method and created a mess? No worries! You can clean up the mess under your eyes by grabbing a smaller fluffy brush and blending away the mess with some of your loose translucent powder. Blend, blend, BLEND until the product is gone. It shouldn't take too long.

4. Blending your eyeshadow

This is probably my favorite use for my loose translucent powder (apart from keeping my oily face under control haha). Instead of adding color after color to create a blended look, I rely on my loose translucent powder to do that job for me without losing the integrity of my colors. Perfection.

5. Smoothly applying streaky blush formulas

Ever find yourself tossing out pretty toned blushes/bronzers because of its horrible streaky formulation? I'm definitely guilty of having done that. Thank goodness I tried out the following method--much better for the wallet: Apply a thin layer of loose translucent powder to cheeks prior to blush application ... then easily blend on the blush/bronzer.

6. Softening up heavy handed makeup applications

Do you over-apply your makeup? Ever find one side of your face slightly overdone than the other? No problem! Just take a big fluffy brush and gently buff the area until desired softness. Easy enough, right?

So there you go ... with just one product you can fix/prevent any under eye fallout messes, soften up your heavy handed makeup application, keep your streaky powder products, AND set your makeup look and increase the longevity of your makeup without having to reapply and waste product.

So? What are you waiting for? Go out and get yourself some loose translucent powder. You won't be disappointed.

***

Happy makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace
makeup@gracechun.com
www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

Real Update Coming Soon

So sorry for the delay ... LA FASHION WEEK(S) has been ruling my life. I'll update as soon as its over!

BUT before I leave ....

Happy Shopping!!!

MAC COSMETICS HOLIDAY COLLECTION

*****

Happy makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace
makeup@gracechun.com
www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

Product Review: BODYOGRAPHY'S Natural Finish Face Bronzer

Bodyography

Natural Finish Face Bronzer

What it Does:

**what it claims**

Finally, a product that will give your skin that Caribbean glow…naturally! Created with minerals for every skin tone, this buildable formula is packed with powerful anti-aging ingredients. Natural Finish Face Bronzer imparts a revitalized feeling to the skin while providing light coverage and a gorgeous, natural looking tan!

**pink area = not my own words**

My Thoughts:

Just because summer has came to an end doesn't mean you have to say goodbye to your summer tans! I've been using this product for a few days now and let me tell you ... I am in love! I've never been a big fan of "fake bake" products (they tend to leave me orange, streaky, and unhappy), BUT there's something about Bodyography's Natural Finish Face Bronzer that keeps me reaching for it every morning. Not only does it leave a natural tan look without the orange/streaky tint ... it's buildable so that it can work with any skin tone. In fact ... its texture is so much like tinted moisturizer that even a heavy hand couldn't "over-tan" your face (though mixing with a moisturizer could be helpful for those with a heavy hand). The finish is light, non-greasy, and results in a gorgeous color. Can't find much wrong with that.

To avoid sounding like a gushing idiot ... I'm not even going to get into how good the mineral ingredients are for your skin. Just trust me when I say my sensitive skin has yet to rebel (and let me tell you ... my skin usually lets me know within minutes if it's pissed off) and feels even smoother/more moisturized than before.

And remember ... a tan face creates a slimmer look ;)

So let's get to my favorite part ... RATING!

Score: 8/10

Since I haven't really used many similar products, I don't want to give it toooo high a rating just yet. But hey ... 8/10 is amazing in my book. The product gives great tan results for an affordable price (just $27 at www.bodyography.com) AND it does wonderful things to your skin. It does, however, get all over your hands so you do need to wash your hands pronto!

Nice tan + anti-aging ingredients + affordable price = Happy consumer.

I recommend everyone try this out and let me know what you think.

*****
Happy makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace
makeup@gracechun.com
www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

Why Skincare?

So I got a few emails regarding my DIY posts. "I love the concept, but it's not makeup" has been the common subject matter to these emails. I was initially going to address these emails individually, but since its obviously something on a lot of your minds ... I thought I would write a blog to explain why I put so much emphasis on good skin care.


The whole point of putting on makeup is to make oneself look better. Without proper skin care ... no amount of makeup can do that for you. It's not often that we compliment someone's makeup if they have bad skin ... in fact, acne/blemishes distract from all the hard work you put into creating that beautiful look.


By taking care of your skin, you create a nice base for your makeup. Just as an artist preps and primes their canvas for a painting ... we must also prep and prime our faces for our work of art ;)


*****
Happy makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace
makeup@gracechun.com
www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

Long-lasting Lipstick

Seems harder to make this a reality than to say "long-lasting lipstick" 3 times in a row ... BUT that's only because you didn't know my fun tips ;)

Let's take a break from our DIY series and focus in on some REAL makeup issues, shall we? 

How to make lipstick last longer. Sounds impossible, eh? Well ... I hate to break it to ya, but lipstick is just not made for all-day wear. There's just no miracle that can make it completely stuck to your lips *maybe permanent marker? =/ jk ... please don't try* for an all day color pout. HOWEVER, I will share with you some tricks I've picked up along the way while working on runway events that should prolong the time between touchups :)

1. Exfoliate your lips :: Remember that sugar and EVOO concoction I told ya'll about a few blog entries ago? Well ... tada! It works on your lips too!! By exfoliating your lips and removing all your dead skin cells from the lips ... it'll prevent that flaky dry look and create a nice even base. 

2. Lipliner :: line your lips and color inside the lines. Just as you should use primer for your eye and face makeup ... your lipliner will play as a primer for the lips. Revlon Colorstay has a great clear lipliner that you can use without having to worry about color matching. Cost AND time effective. Perfect ;)

3. Apply-Blot-Reapply :: Apply lipstick *that has been in ROOM to COOL temperature* as normal after liner. Blot! This will press down the pigment into the lips and lift off any excess product and oils. It will also matte down the lipstick. After blotting ... reapply the lipstick for your final color. *remember to use the finger slide mentioned in my earlier blog entries to remove excess lipstick to avoid getting lipstick on your teeth*

3 *optional*. Powder :: Sometimes blotting doesn't do the trick ... you may need some extra help in maintaining that oily face of yours ;) Don't be shy ... there are plenty of us out there. Instead of blotting and then reapplying ... take the extra step of powdering. While you're blotting away on a tissue ... take another sheet and place on top of lips. Powder the tissue *the holes will allow for the powder to seep through* and then reapply the lipstick. This should help keep your base color in place. 

By taking the time to properly apply the first time ... it'll save you time in the touchup department later on in the day. Take the extra 5 minutes it takes to complete these steps ... you won't be sorry.  

*****

Happy makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace
makeup@gracechun.com
www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

DIY #3: Egg In Your Face!

Not such a bad thing ... at least not in skincare ;) 

I recall an incident from a past job when the doctor (a cosmetic dermatologist) I used to work for used the phrase "egg in your face" in place of "shit hit the fan." Funny that she, being a "dermatologist" and all  (too long of a story to explain why I put that in "quotes" haha), couldn't see the phrase in the positive light that I see it. 

Ingredients: 

Organic eggs

100% Pure Honey

EVOO

Directions for Under Eyes: 

1. Cleanse face and pat dry

2. Crack egg and separate egg white in a bowl and mix until frothy

3. Apply to under eye area and leave on for 5 minutes

4. Apply a second layer and leave on for 5 minutes

5. Thoroughly rinse off with warm water 

6. Enjoy your mini eye lift ;)

Directions for Face Mask:

1. Cleanse face and pat dry

2. Crack whole egg and mix

3. 1 tablespoon of 100% Pure Honey

4. 1 tablespoon of EVOO

5. Mix well 

6. Apply to face

7. Leave mask on for about 20 minutes *or until completely dry*

8. Thoroughly rinse off with warm water 

9. Set with cool water then pat dry

10. Enjoy!

Why These Ingredients?

1. Egg :: Egg in your face will help keep you looking young and fresh! The natural proteins found in a raw egg will tighten the skin (as well as pores) and greatly improve tired looking skin on your face INCLUDING the dreaded under eye area!! 

2. Honey :: A disinfecting, humectant ... check out my previous blog for more on Honey. 

3. EVOO :: What's there NOT to love about EVOO? Have your doubts? Refer back to my Facial Scrubs blog and see for yourself ;)

My Thoughts:

I'll take eggs in my face any day of the week! I may not be getting any younger, but my age surely doesn't have to show on my face. ;) 

***

Happy makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace
makeup@gracechun.com
www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

DIY #2: Aspirin Mask

 Headaches from your acne problems? Try some aspirin! 

That's right ladies and gentlemen, take care of your headaches AND your acne woes with one of the most popular DIY facial masks--the aspirin mask.  With just 3 cheap ingredients, you can create the perfect combination of acne fighting goodness. 

**perhaps in a future blog I'll include some other variations I've used in the past, but this is the most commonly used**

Ingredients: 

Uncoated Aspirin Tablets

100% Pure Honey

Water

Directions: 

1. Cleanse face and pat dry 

2. Take a few uncoated aspirin tablets *1-2 for spot treating. 4-5 for entire face* place on to a bowl or your hands. 

3. Lightly sprinkle some warm water on to the tablets to soften up the tablets *about 3-5 drops of water should do*

4. Mash the tablets with finger so its a pasty texture

5. Add 1-2 tsp of pure honey and mix together

6. Apply to face with fingers and coat the area to be treated *spots or entire face*

7. Leave on for about 10-15 minutes *DO NOT LEAVE FOR LONGER THAN 15 MIN!*

8. Thoroughly rinse off mask with warm water.

Why These Ingredients? 

1. Aspirin :: What most people don't know about aspirin is that the active ingredient is salicylic acid. Sound familiar? It should! Salicylic acid is the key ingredient for most anti-acne products (like Neutragena and Clearasil). Due to the hydrolysis that occurs between the water and the aspirin ... the acid that is created is able to dissolve in the sebum *the oil created by our skin that is the cause of acne if mixed with bacteria* and create an exfoliating effect to the treated area. 

2. Water :: Not only does it help dissolve the uncoated aspirin tablet ... it activates the hydrolysis that needs to take place in order for the acid to be created. The neutral pH balance of water is necessary for this mask to be effective. So actually ... the whole point IS to dissolve the aspirin tablet. I just wanted to show off how smart (and redundant) I can sound =P

3. 100% Pure Honey :: Due to its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, honey is great for acne skin. On top of all that ... honey is a humectant so it's great to counter the drying affect that could occur from the aspirin's exfoliation. 

My Thoughts:

Sooo basically ... the combination of the three results in the following: 

1. The aspirin and water dissolves sebum and exfoliates bad skin

2. The honey disinfects and cleans out the pores 

3. The honey moisturizes the skin to counter dryness from the exfoliation 

No complaints here! :)

*****

Happy makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace
makeup@gracechun.com
www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

DIY #1: Facial Scrubs

With so many of my friends still in school or on the job hunt ... I thought it would be nice to talk about skin care remedies you can create from products found in your home.  Not only are these skin solutions easier on the wallet, it also eliminates the chemicals that are found in store bought products. Double win! 

So let's begin with facial scrubs. 

Ingredients: 

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Brown Sugar / Salt

Directions: 

Oily Skin :: 1 tsp of extra virgin olive oil stir in 1 tsp of salt ** you want a grainy texture**

Dry Skin :: 1 tsp of extra virgin olive oil stir in 1 tsp of sugar **you want a grainy texture**

Instructions: 

1. Remove makeup. 

2. Rinse face with water. 

3. Gently massage in olive oil and sugar/salt mix to face in circular motions with fingertips. 

4. Rinse off with warm-hot water thoroughly. 

5. Pat dry with towel

6. Enjoy your smooth, exfoliated skin!

Why these ingredients? 

1. EVOO :: Sooo before I go off about how wonderful EVOO is ... let's begin with smashing a common misconception about EVOO and oily skin. What is the misconception, you ask? Well ... it's the idea that EVOO would be horrible for oily skin--that the oil would simply add oil to the face and increase acne. Fact of the matter is ... EVOO helps to break down the sebum without stripping the skin entirely of necessary oils. Stripping the face of oils will actually stimulate the skin to produce even MORE oil to compensate. So instead of washing your face with soap and water 4 times a day ... wash it once with soap and once with EVOO. You'll thank me for it later ;) 

So what makes EVOO so great? Well ... this magical potion of goodness has fat composition that is quite similar to the human skin. Because of this similarity ... it rarely causes allergic reactions. EVOO has high percentage of unsaturated fat as well as vitamin A and E -- which helps to prevent sun damage and soothe sensitive skin. Also ... because it is an oil, it breaks down the sebum, yet still manages to help retain moisture to your skin. Notice how women with oily skin rarely have wrinkles? EVOO is perfect for fighting against those wrinkles ;) If it's good enough for Sophia Loren ... then it's good enough for me.

2. Sugar / Salt ::  Natural. Cheap. Perfect. What more could you ask for in a scrub? Not only are these lil guys all natural and always in your kitchen (well, most kitchens) they are the perfect size and texture for a smooth, fresh feeling finish. 

My Thoughts:

Would I ever leave you without my thoughts? NEVER! 

I love EVOO. Not only is it good for you to eat ... I love that it's good for your skin (and hair!) as well. It may not be the cheapest of cooking oils ... but you will thank me for recommending this addition to your kitchen (and skincare routine).  So scrub away (with a light hand), my pets. It will help clear away the dead skin cells and result in a glowy face :)

 *please note that I am not a dermatologist and cannot guarantee that this will work for everyone*

*****

Happy makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace
makeup@gracechun.com
www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

Product Review: Patricia Wexler M.D.'s Fastscription Instant De-Puff Gel

Patricia Wexler M.D. Dermatology

Fastscription™ Instant De-Puff Eye Gel What It Does: The name pretty much gives it away, but if you couldn't figure it out ... this product is supposed to de-puff the eye area. **What it Claims** Cooling and correcting, this miraculous gel immediately reduces visible puffiness. See long-term benefits with continued use. Specially formulated yeast complex firms the undereye area and softens the appearance of fine lines. Visibly renews and improves skin inside and out. Firms the orbital eye area Reduces the appearance of fine lines Fragrance-free Suitable for all skin types **pink area = not my own words** My thoughts: I kind of love this product. In fact ... I should get paid for all the people I've sent over to Bath and Body Works to purchase this thing! Okay, so I'm not going to make some outrageous statement by calling it a miracle worker (although a lot of my clients love, love LOVE and swear by this product) ... but it does do wonders. Upon application ... you can totally feel the tingling action as the product starts to work its magic. I'm telling you ... it really does make a difference. Do not, however, mistake this product for a wrinkle filler. I had a client say that she felt the tingling action, totally saw the puffiness die down, but it made little difference to the wrinkles around her eye. *crickets chirping as I stare at her* ... uhhh yeah. It's a De-PUFF product ... not an anti-wrinkling agent. *sigh* So let's rate this thing. *drum rolllllllll* Score: 8/10. "WHAT?! But I thought you LOVED this thing!" Okay ... so the reason this product doesn't get a 10/10 or a 9/10 is because of two things. 1. Many feel that the product loses its effectiveness after long term use. Perhaps taking some time off of the product and only using it when you really need it (i.e. photoshoots) can prevent this. 2. Packaging: I'm no psychic ... I'm a busy makeup artist. The worst thing is getting to a job and then realizing the product is out. Not a huge deal, I know. But little peeper areas in the packaging through SOME clear material would be nice. 10 is perfection ... and this is MY review. I can be stingy with my rating points if I want. So there! =P ***** Happy Makeup-ing! xoxo, Grace makeup@gracechun.com www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

Foundations Overview

If there is one thing I get asked most when my (not so) secret identity as a makeup artist is out, it's questions regarding foundations. Whether it's about color matching, types, brands, tools to use, or application tips ... foundation is apparently the one makeup product that leaves people scratching their heads. And let me tell you ... there are people who don't ask me questions who I kinda wish would .... =/

So I won't bore you by repeating what I wrote in my previous post regarding makeup no-no's, but don't you worry your pretty little heads -- I've got your foundation queries covered (at least I hope I do...)

With that said ... let's begin, shall we? :)

1. TYPES: There are so many different types of foundations out there ... but here is a list of a few popular ones:

*Mineral: Light to Heavy coverage

-PRO: Great for sensitive skin. Flexible coverage. Good for daily use.

-CON: Loose powders = powdery mess.

*Cream: Light to Heavy coverage

-PRO: Flexible coverage. Great for custom color matching. Smooth finish.

-CON: Tad heavy for daily wear.

*Liquid: Light to Medium coverage

-PRO: Good for daily use. Easy to apply. Smooth finish.

-CON: Can irritate skin ... esp. if waterproof

*Tinted Moisturizers: Light coverage

-PRO: Softens, protects, lightly evens out, and moisturizes in one easy step.

-CON: Coverage too light to cover any blemishes.

*Mousse/Whipped: Light to Medium coverage

-PRO: Light and airy formula. Super smooth finish. Great for mature skin.

-CON: Pricy for some added air to the formula.

2. APPLICATION TOOLS

*Stippling brush

*Sponge

*Foundation brush

*BeautyBlender

*Fingers

3. APPLICATION METHODS

*Stipple on with a stippling brush or BeautyBlender for a airbrush-like finish. **#2**

*Apply with a wet sponge for a light/sheer/smooth finish. **#3**

*Apply with a dry sponge for a medium finish.

*Apply with a foundation brush then blend edges with a sponge or fingers.

*Apply with fingers for an easy blend (due to body heat) **#1**

4. COLOR MATCHING

Before I share any color matching methods ... be sure to go foundation shopping with a clean face. There's no point in matching your foundation to a face with makeup already on it. If the foundation is to be worn for photos or film with heavy lighting ... find a foundation color a 1/2 to 1 shade darker to avoid the flushed look ... however, any darker and it may be too dark.

*The 3 Stripe Test:

Choose 3 foundation colors closest to your skin tone and test stripe them across your lower jaw. The tone that melts into your skin on the face and neck is the foundation color that best suits you.

*Care for an "outside" opinion?:

As mentioned in my previous entry ... be sure to test a new foundation color outdoors. Natural lighting vs. store lighting can end up in quite a drastic difference ... so keep this in mind and always get an "outside" opinion.

5. MY THOUGHTS AND RECOMMENDATIONS...

I'm not gonna lie ... my go to "foundation" for the summer is actually the oil free tinted moisturizer. Laura Mercier's, to be exact. BUT that does NOT mean I'm saying it's right for you. Always keep in mind that texture/formula is just as important as color matching.

*Mineral: okay for all skin types, esp. sensitive skin. BUT may be drying for already dry skin.

*Cream: okay for all skin types. Cream to Powder solution is good for oily skin.

*Liquid: okay for all skin types. Sensitive skin, however, be wary of foundation with SPF.

*Tinted Moisturizer: recommended for combination to dry skin. VERY light.

*Mousse/Whipped: great for dry and aging/mature skin

Some brands I've used and recommend are:

Eve Pearl's HD foundation

Makeup Forever's HD Foundation

Revlon Colorstay Foundation

Bare Escentuals Mineral Makeup Foundation

Laura Mercier's SPF 20 Tinted Moisturizer

*****

So there you have it ... my little overview of foundations. I'm pretty sure (more like ... I'm 100% sure) that I left stuff out ... but hey, I'm human. I'm entitled to forget a few things, right? So sue me if you don't agree (actually, please don't. You really won't get much out of me =/). So anyway ... I really do hope that this was helpful to some of you.

Here's to happy makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace

makeup@gracechun.com
www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

Makeup No-no's and How to Avoid Them

Ever seen someone walk around with the wrong color foundation? What about that distinct mask of foundation that covers only the center of their face? Or how about eyeshadow that starts and ends in distinct lines instead of blending in with each other? Or eyeliner that has transferred from the rim of the eyes to the middle of the eyelids from sweat or oils?

If you're as big a makeup fanatic as I am (or just freakishly overly observant to everyone's makeup), I bet you come across handfuls of these makeup fouls on a day to day basis. In fact, more than a few of these offenders are probably close friends or family members. Messy situation. Trust me, I know =/.

For example, after having lunch with a friend who, unfortunately, was guilty of more than one makeup no-no ... I decided that writing about it in my blog may be the best way for her to get the subtle hint ;). It's not like I'm naming any names, right? A bit passive-aggressive perhaps -- but can you blame me? I'm not here to hurt anyone's feelings ... just sharing a few makeup tips to those who love makeup as much as I do. And lets face it ... every girl needs a few makeup tips every now and then. And that includes me :).

For the sake of this blog entry, I'll keep the list of makeup faux pas' (and their solutions) to 10. So without further ado ... lets begin with the most commonly made mistake:

1. You look a little pale ... you feeling okay?

Whether it's too dark or too light ... the fact of the matter is, too many people walk around with a foundation color that's simply too wrong for their face. So what's the problem here?

If I had to pinpoint the main misconception regarding foundation, it's the idea that one foundation color will do for the rest of your life. Now, I know that we're all busy and the idea of asking a cosmetic rep to match our foundation for us every time we re-purchase a bottle seems like a huge waste of time. HOWEVER, I feel that it is important to understand that our face is not always one color, nor is this color incapable of change. Change is inevitable, especially for those who are residents of high sunshine locations (like me ... sunny, sunny Southern California).

My advice is ... always match your foundation to your skin tone every couple months. Also, I find that keeping a few different tones of foundation with you can be most helpful. Personally, I have foundation to match my face for winter, fall/spring, and summer. By having a few selections to choose from ... it's easy to mix and match shades to custom-made perfection while your skin tone is in its transitional stages. Another suggestion is to get an outside opinion on the matter when purchasing a shade for the first time--and by outside, I mean LITERALLY go outside. Sometimes the lighting in a store can be deceptive. What looks great inside a store can look totally different when put to the test outdoors in natural lighting. And last but not least ... foundation is for your face, not your hand or your arm. So match accordingly. Since most products come with SPF nowadays, it's inevitable that the neck and face are going to be different shades. Try the 3 stripe test *check in for the "Foundation Overview" coming soon* along your lower jaw to find the right match.

2. The Masquerade Ball of Foundation

While a mask may be suitable for Halloween or a masquerade party ... it is not a look that's okay for your regular day to day.

Unlike color matching, this problem has a fairly easy fix. Just take your foundation brush/sponge/fingers (whatever application tool you use) and blend, blend, BLEND the foundation into your hairline, towards the ear, down the chin, and onto the neck. The whole point of foundation is to create an even, flawless finish to the face and prepare it for the rest of the makeup application process. Without proper blending, it defeats the entire purpose of foundation ... after all, an unblended mask of foundation not only accentuates unevenness, it's better off to not wear any at all. So take that tool and blend away, girls.

3. Unruly Eyeliner

I know you've all seen it lady's ... in fact, I'm pretty sure that you've been guilty (more like, victim) of the commonly made mistake of forgetting to keep your eyeliner in check.

That's right ... the eyeliner application process doesn't just start and stop with lining the eyes with your favorite pen/gel/liquid liner. The process actually begins with a good eyeshadow primer along with a wash of eyeshadow all over the lid, to prevent oils from underneath to break down the product. The process then ends with the key element of setting with your desired powder. By setting your liner with a powder (translucent or preferred eyeshadow color) it'll keep the liner from traveling away from its intended location. By combining these two steps, you can get through the day without worrying about any eyeliner mishaps.

4. It's called LIPstick ... not TOOTHpick ;)

Okay ... I KNOW that was lame, but you all know what I'm getting at. Lipstick belongs on your lips, not your teeth.

The solution to this problem isn't exactly the most "glamorous" but it works, and desperate times (more like "problems") call for desperate measures.

So here it is: the solution to avoiding lipstick on your teeth is to apply your lipstick as normal and then stick your *clean* finger into the center of your mouth and slide it out between your lips ... kinda like a lollipop. Your finger should catch any excess lipstick from the center of your lips and will successfully prevent any lipstick from smearing onto your teeth. **I do not doing this to a client ... it would probably be seen as inappropriate and you'll never see them again. In fact ... you probably won't be finishing the rest of their look either..."

5. ...Nor is it called FACEstick

yeah yeah yeah ... the lame police should come and take me away, but it doesn't change the fact that lipstick should stay on your lips and not make a mess on your face. Feathering lipstick is not an attractive look.

Luckily, this problem has two easy solutions: lipliner and concealer.

Now, I'm not talking about 90's style darker than lipstick lipliner ... I'm thinking more along the lines of similar tone or clear lipliner to create a base and border to prevent lipstick from leaving its designated place. Simply line the lips and then color in the lips with chosen lipliner before applying lipstick. To further increase defenses against feathering, concealer can be used to create crisp lipstick lines and a border of sorts. Place a tissue over the lips and lightly powder with a translucent powder. This will prevent feathering as well as increase the lipstick's longevity. Can't ask for much more than that :)

6. Concealer without a corrector tone is kinda like ... showering and then putting on dirty clothes.

Totally defeats the purpose right? So let's talk correctors.

A corrector color is necessary for a concealer to work its magic properly. Think about it ... if you have a red spot (acne) and a blue spot (under eye circles) how can the concealer correct AND create the same color? It won't.

The concealer needs a corrector tone to neutralize the problematic color. A green corrector tone for any red blemishes and a salmon color corrector for any blue/green blemishes. After using the corrective tone to neutralize, you can then use your normal concealer to create that even tone to match your foundation. What I like to do is apply a corrective tone first, powder the corrected areas, apply foundation like normal ... then concealer for any areas that require extra attention. By applying in this order, a concealer may not even be necessary after the corrective tone and foundation is applied.

7. Why'd you leave the house with your eye makeup half done?

If you're going to put in the time to wear eye makeup ... why not put in the effort to do it properly? A blending brush is not just a necessity in your makeup brush collection ... it's one of the most important. All it takes is to place your desired eye colors ... then blend away the edges and/or where two eyeshadow colors meet with a clean blending brush and some translucent powder. The powder and brush will give it a nice gradient blend that smoothly transitions from one color to the next.

8. Is that a black eye or are you TRYING to look like a raccoon?

Every now and then I come across what I call an out of control smokey eye. What I mean by that is ... the smokiness of the eye has gone beyond its standard intended smokiness and the excess eyeshadow has fallen to the undereye area.

You can prevent this mishap by applying your eye makeup first. That's right. No magic tricks here ... just a little change up of the order. Just do your eye makeup the same as you always would ... and then clean up the excess fallout with some moisturizer.

OR

Do your face makeup. Grab a big fluffy makeup brush and any (clear/light) loose face powder you can find and liberally apply to the area under the eye. Basically it should look like you powder sugared your undereye area. TADA! This powdered area will catch any excess fallout during application and all you have to do is brush clean it off. That wasn't so hard, was it? :)

9. Cakey makeup ... totally your own fault.

Despite what you want to believe ... cakey makeup is not a result of bad cosmetics. In fact ... it's a result from a heavy hand. YOUR heavy hand. Use your makeup in moderation. You can always add more, but it's near impossible to undo over-application. If you use liquid or cream foundation try sheering down your makeup by blending with a wet sponge--you can also mix foundation with moisturizer to sheer down the coverage. And don't over-powder your face either. Try powder blush/bronzer to set your cheeks and then ONE good layer of translucent powder to set the rest of your makeup. If you need to get rid of midday shine ... try using oil blot sheets before packing on the powders. You'll thank me for it later. I promise.

10. Mascara is for your eyelashes ... not your eyelids

That's right ladies ... mascara belongs nowhere else but your eyelashes. So what are my application secrets, you ask? I have three.

First is what I call the blink method. The blink method is just that ... holding the mascara wand in one hand while blinking your lashes into the wand. This method is actually not my favorite, but it seems to be the only one that works for some of my clients when they're applying mascara on themselves. It's pretty foolproof, but it's also not the most efficient.

The second method is the pinky method. This is the one I use most frequently on my clients as well as myself. What I do is place my free pinky between the eyelid and the eyelashes and weave the mascara in with the wand. This allows for full mascara coverage without clumping.

The third method is the business card method. I read about this one in a magazine many years ago. Place a business card (with a semi circle cut in the shape of your eye) along your lash line and weave the mascara in with the wand. This method is great for those against getting your fingers smudged with mascara. The only downfall is that you have to have a business card. Minor detail.

*****

Well ... I hope that was helpful. Please let me know if you have any requests or questions you'd like answered.

Happy Makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace

makeup@gracechun.com

www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

1. 2. 3's on Hygienic practices for a Makeup Artist

There's something that irks me about working with a makeup artist that doesn't have good hygienic practices when it comes to their makeup products. It's not only a reflection on how much you care for your clients ... it is also a reflection on your professionalism. Here are 3 quick tips to keep your products and reputation clean :)

1. Always, always, ALWAYS keep brush cleanser solution and a small towel/paper towels with you to spot clean between clients.

There's just something that irks me about a MUA who refuses to clean their brushes in between clients because they're in a rush. This occurs mostly backstage at a runway event. I've been so lucky (more like unlucky) to have seen a used makeup brush *single application* under a microscope. It's not insanely gross after a single application, but enough to convince me to clean between each client. The lovely oils, sweat, and bacteria on someone's face is now on your brush. Joy. You NEVER know how clean (or unclean ... eck) a client's face is. I assure you, a model's pretty face is not a reflection on her hygienic goodness. Trust me.

2. Use a metal spatula to scoop or scrape products instead of double dipping your brush.

The oils from a client's face will rub off on the brush and then be transferred to your products. This can cause your makeup to go bad earlier than its intended lifetime. As a makeup artist, I know that we aren't exactly in the highest pay margin. This method can save a few of our precious pennies and prevent you from having to restock on makeup goodies prematurely. I have also found a product called Beauty Simply Clean Cosmetic Cleansing Spray. It is a product to look into for those in faster paced environments and find scooping and scraping products a loss of valuable time. If you must double dip ... just take a spritz at your product and it's supposed to kill the germs and bacteria. Good deal.

3. Throw away used sponges and wash your reusable powder puffs.

Okay, so this tip sounds pretty "duh! OBVIOUSLY" BUT you'd be surprised at the number of makeup artists I've worked with on set who use the same sponges and powder puffs on their actress/actor throughout the entirety of the shoot. Gross. Whether it's 2 days or 15 days ... the bacteria from the oils and sweat from your client's face sits there ... on the used sponge/puff and you're just mashing it back and forth on their face. Eck.

tune in next time for more tips ...

Happy Makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace
makeup@gracechun.com
www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

My Daily Must-Haves :: August Edition

So here it is ... my "go to" products that keep me looking fresh during the summer heat =)

1. Acne bar soap :: www.bestbathstore.com

2. Burt's Bees Tomato Toner

3. Laura Mercier SPF 20 Oil Free Tinted Moisturizer

4. Rimmel Stay Matte translucent powder

5. TRUE Mineral Makeup Powder Blush in Apricot

6. MAC's All That Glitters eyeshadow for a nice peachy gold wash to the eyes

7. Any black-brown eyeliner for top

8. Any colored eyeliner for bottom *it adds a nice pop to the eyes*

9. Waterproof Mascara **very important to have waterproof so it doesn't smudge in the sun**

10. Any gloss or burt's bees pomegranate chapstick

Happy makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace
makeup@gracechun.com
www.twitter.com/gracechunmua

First Blog

Hello All!

This blog is dedicated to makeup product reviews as well as makeup trends, shows/events, and whatever else makeup I can think of. I also intend on starting youtube videos featuring product reviews, tutorials, and insider makeup artist tips and tricks of the trade I've picked up along the way. Please feel free to contact me with any questions and or requests and I'll get back to you ASAP. :)

Happy makeup-ing!

xoxo,

Grace

makeup@gracechun.com

www.twitter.com/gracechunmua